Replace Volvo XC90 engine mounts

Required Tools

  • Metric sockets ⅜” and ½” drive
  • Extensions You’ll need to be able to reach ~ 18”
  • Ratcheting wrenches
  • Torx bits
  • Torque wrenches ⅜” and ½” drive
  • Engine support bar I used Harbor Freight part #96524
  • Jacks You’ll probably want two of them
  • Jack-stands

Parts (2004 XC90, 2.5T)

  • Engine mounting, upper 8649597
  • Engine pad (RHS) 30748811
  • Engine pad (front) 30778951
  • Engine pad (rear) 30778951
  • (2) Sub-frame screws 985111 (Sems screw, M14 X 100 X 2.0, Grade 8.8)

Notes: Hutchinson is the OEM for the engine pads.

Rear Mount

The rear mount is a beast to replace – I don’t recommend this for the faint of heart. Make sure that the rear mount is shot before attempting this repair. The good news is that you do a lot of the work to remove and replace the other three mounts while the rear mount is being changed out.

Jack up the car by placing the jack under the sub-frame mounts. Place a jack stand under each of the factory jacking points and remove the front wheels.

xc90-engine-mount-rear-1Open the driver’s door and move the seat all the way back. Fold the floor carpet out of the way and bend up the outer cover of the steering shaft boot. Remove the retaining clip around the rubber boot and then pull the boot up.

Remove the setscrew securing the mounting for the steering shaft in the joint from the steering shaft. Doing this lets the steering mechanism move when the sub-frame is lowered. Note the “dimple” in the shaft that allows the setscrew to be inserted. The shaft can only fit one way into the u-joint.
xc90-engine-mount-rear-3Remove the torsion bar and upper engine mount. You’ll need to remove the oil-filler cap, the mounting brackets for the turbo intercooler tube (plastic tube that crosses the engine), and the plastic cover over the ignition coils.

If you look at the firewall, towards the right-hand. That’s the nut. side of the XC90, all the way towards the bottom of the engine then you’ll see the nut that secures the upper part of the engine mount. This is where you need to have 15-18” worth of extensions handy. You have to remove the nut from the top, or at least get the nut mostly off so that you can contort yourself underneath the car and remove it the rest of the way. My impact gun made short work of it.


Next, position and install the engine support bar. Connect the chains to the two lifting points. Adjust the tension on the chains so that the support bar is carrying the weight of the engine.
Go to the right hand side of the car and remove the two plastic nuts holding the fender cover in place. Bend the cover back- there’s actually a crease in the plastic to do this. Remove the two bolts securing the right-hand engine mount to the engine. You should also loosen the two bolts that hold the mount to the sub-frame.

Remove these 3 screws from the skid plate and on the other side, too.
Crawl under the car- you’ll be spending a lot of time there. You need to remove the plastic splashguard. Then remove the six screws holding the aluminium skid plate to the sub-frame at the very front of the car.

(Two of the screws are recessed.) There is a guide sleeve on the upper mounting of the plate that must be lifted slightly so that the plate can be removed. The part doesn’t weigh very much, but it is a little awkward to handle.



Scoot towards the back of the car just past the transmission and remove the four bolts that hold the SIPS member in place. There are a few things attached to this piece, so carefully remove the plastic anchors that hold wires and tubes.

Next use a large screwdriver to remove the rubber exhaust mounting from the exhaust pipe. Leave the rubber piece hanging on the top tube.

Position a jack with a 2 X 4 on top of the jack cradle underneath the sub-frame. I found it useful to place the jack more towards the right-hand side of the car. Raise the jack so that the wood is supporting the weight of the sub-frame.


Remove the three screws from each side of the sub-frame mounting brackets. An impact wrench helps here- the main bolt is really long and torqued down tightly.

If the jack is lowered slowly and carefully then the sub-frame should come down as well. Leave the jack in place to hold up the sub-frame.

At this point the official Volvo instructions are very clear and concise and say, “Remove the engine pad.” If only it were so easy!

If you crane your neck and look towards the front of the car you’ll see the bolt that holds the rear engine mount to the steering rack. Notice please that there is no way for any normal human to remove this bolt, or at least I couldn’t figure out how to do it, so I ended up removing the bracket for the front sway bar.

xc90-engine-mount-rear-10In order to remove the sway bar bracket you have to disconnect the sway bar from the front strut. You need to use a closed (ratcheting) wrench (15 mm) and a T30 Torx inserted in the end of the bolt as a counter hold. It doesn’t take much force to do the job, but I would recommend soaking the nut with WD40 prior to removal. Once that nut is removed then you can undo the two bracket bolts. Remove the nut from the right-hand side assembly, too, and then loosen one of the bracket bolts on that side so that the sway bar is free to rotate.

Now remove the bottom bolt out of the engine mount.

Next, either raise the chains on the engine support, or place another jack and 2 X

4 combination underneath the oil pan so that you can raise the engine. An assistant is good to have right now otherwise you spend a lot of time going back and forth from underneath the car to raising the jack a bit more. The idea is to raise the engine enough to be able to remove the engine pad.

Once the engine pad is freed then rotate the part and bring it out of the car. This will take some spatial-relations work, which is not my strong suit, but the pad will eventually come out. Try and remember how the old part came out, because the new mount goes back in the same way. (I found the best way of doing this was to lie on my back with my feet towards the back of the vehicle.)

The installation, as they say, is the reverse of removal.

A few tips:

  • Use a bit of paper towel or some grease placed inside of the socket to secure the bottom bolt in the socket as you reinstall the bolt (50 N-m) into the new pad.
  • The engine pad has a guide pin on it that allows the pad to be installed in a metal bracket and subsequently onto the engine in one position.
  • Raise the subframe enough to get the top nut of the engine mount started. You’ll have to tighten it to 50 N-m from above.
  • Keep an eye on the steering shaft knuckle. You have to make sure that it goes back in straight as you raise the subframe back into position. (A helper raising the jack is a big help!)
  • To re-install the subframe, raise the sub-frame back into position with the jack. Starting with the left-hand side, install the bracket and hand-tighten the two smaller bolts, and then the new big bolt. Now do the same on the right-hand side. Go back to the left side and tighten the smaller bolts to 50 N-m. Then tighten the big bolt to 105 N-m, and then turn it an additional 120o. Now go to the right side and do the same. The small bolts are only tightened to 50 N-m, or else you’ll get a lesson in yield strength and how to use an “easy-out.”
  • Be sure and check that all of the bolts are properly fastened.


Right Mount

If you’ve replaced the rear mount then you’ve already loosened the right engine pad. If not, then make sure that the engine is supported by placing a jack and block of wood under the oil pan, or use the engine support bar.

Remove the front wheel and the two plastic nuts holding the plastic fender cover in place. Bend the cover back-there’s actually a crease in the plastic to do this.

Undo the bolts that secure the mount to the engine block, and then remove the two bolts holding the mount to the sub-frame. Install the new mount and snug-up all four bolts. Then torque the bolts connecting the mount to the engine block to 35 N-m + 60o, and the bolts to the sub-frame to 20 N-m + 60o.



Upper Engine Mount/Torque Bracket

xc90-engine-mount-upper-1Remove the torsion bar and upper engine mount. You’ll need to remove the oil-filler cap, the mounting brackets for the turbo intercooler tube (plastic tube that crosses the engine), and the plastic cover over the ignition coils.

Install the new torque mount. Torque the four mounting screws to 50 N-m. Tighten the bolts on the suspension turrets to 50 N-m. Tighten the center screw of the new torque bracket to 80 N-m.


Transmission or Lower Torque Rod

xc90-engine-mount-transmission-1Remove the splashguard under the engine. Remove the bolts to the transmission (A) and the nuts from the sub-frame (B). Remove the old mount.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Torque the bolts to the transmission to 35 N-m + 40o, and the nuts to the sub-frame to 65 N-m + 60o.


Front Mount

This one isn’t too bad, but you do need to able to contort yourself a bit and have a long extension. I did this mount at the same time as the rear so the other mounts were removed and the support bar and a floor jack supported the engine.

Remove the inlet air filter ductwork leading from the top of the radiator to the air filter. You’ll need the extra space, believe me.


Remove the lower bolt from the engine pad.


Remove the top nut from the engine pad. You’ll need a flexible, deep well socket. I had to use a 3/8” drive socket because a ½” would not fit. You’ll also need a very long extension to reach the nut. There isn’t a lot of room between the engine and radiator, either, so be prepared for more arm contortions.

Now lift the engine by raising the jack underneath the oil pan. Lift the engine high enough to allow the engine mount to be removed. This mount is the same part as the rear mount, so it, too, has a guide pin that allows the mount to be installed one way only. Lower the engine ensuring that the mount is positioned correctly, and then tighten the top nut and bottom bolt to 50 N-m, and then reassemble the car. (You can start the top nut from underneath the car.)

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